Myself: How I surfed on this Modern Collective trip. I didn’t have a good time.
Australia: There are not that many reefs around here. I miss the reefs at home: how it breaks in the same spot and you get the same section over and over.
My best friend: Granger Larsen is always pissed at something. Like we’d be sitting here cruising and he’d be like, “Brah, I am so pissed right now.”
My family: My mum’s cooking. She can only do simple things like fish. She probably couldn’t make lasagna.
Today: There’s four hundred feet of swell and we can’t surf anywhere. I’m just sitting in a room looking out at windblown scuzz. It fucking sucks.
Politics: That I don’t know much about them. I haven’t found a need to study up on them.
TV: That Laguna Beach show. It’s just a bunch of rich whinging fags.
Travel: You always miss home no matter what. It’s hard leaving warm water, good waves and the freedom of being able to do anything you want whenever you want. When you’re on the road you can’t just go and golf when you want to.
Exercise: I dread the moment you wake up and realise you gotta go to the gym. It’s so much pain. Kahea Hart is coming through Europe with me to train me.
Food: Mushrooms. I hate the texture, I hate the taste, and I hate how they look like a little wiener.
Why can’t women just think like men? Why can’t they rifle us and just be like, “Peace! I’m out.”
Alcohol: Waking up the morning after and having that feeling of regret. I hate what I do when I’m drunk.
Fashion: Unless I’m Luke Stedman, it doesn’t really matter to me. I just wear what is given to me. The whole image thing in surfing is funny but you can’t judge someone for what they wear unless they look like a complete fag.
Religion: The Muslims killing other people because of what they believe in was crazy. Hawaii is a pretty sacred place, and I believe in god, but not that way.
Music: Death metal. It’s too loud and in your face. Reggae is where it’s at. It suits the vibe in Hawaii.
Kelly Slater: Where to start? That he poled Pamela, Giselle and then Bar Rafaeli.
Tattoos: That you can’t take them off the next day. (He shows me a shaka tattoo on his toe) I would never take that off.
Sex: Why can’t women just think like men? Why can’t they rifle us and just be like, “Peace! I’m out.”
The media: You need the media but all the stuff – the interviews and the commitments, tires me out.
